Sunday, February 13, 2011

Negroni take 2

My dear one had just arisen from a nap so I'll leave his sleepyface off the interwebs
For my second attempt at the Negroni for the MPB Sewalong, I cut a size M but laid the size L neckline over the pattern and traced that, like so:

It really hurt my brain to figure out this alteration, which seems so simple
I kept the L collar pattern piece I already had, and changed the front facing neckline to match as well.

I used the Japanese cotton lawn. Andy expressed grave concern over its floral-ness at first but I think he's coming around now it's taking shape.

I am learning so much from the sewalong. There's helpful advice from Peter and other participants, learning by looking at the photos and notes of others on Flickr, and simply the trial and error of ploughing through it all at home. I'm thrilled to be getting the hang of sleeve plackets and edge-stitching:

I have been using my zipper foot to allow me to do a far more accurate and narrow edge-stitch
and between a few of us we have identified an apparent error in the pattern (which is nonetheless awesome), when it comes to putting together the sleeve cuffs.

The instructions have you make the outer cuff side 1/8 inch shorter than the inner when it should be that much longer, in order to cover the stitching you see here
One of the other sewalong-ers told me that Liberty lawn can be really tough on machine needles, so be prepared to change over once or twice during the final shirt making. I noticed that with this Japanese lawn too. I guess it's the very tight, fine weave. Difficult to get pins through, too. Before the Liberty shirt I will equip myself with more fine machine needles and maybe a set of fine, sharp pins.

I need to put buttons on this shirt and hem it. I would also like to figure out what's going on with the creases running from shoulder to under the arm.

I am becoming more and more fond of this faux-Liberty lawn as I go along
I am hoping for some group advice! I don't know if I have it in me to make another actual muslin before the final shirt. I have a lot of actual, um, 'real' work waiting for me. We'll see.

- J x


  1. You are amazing! It looks fabulous!

  2. Aw, thanks Carolyn. The sew-along has been so incredibly valuable. I am learning so much, and one of the other group members has already suggested a fix for the shoulder creases. I love the online sewing community :-)

  3. I think your muslin looks pretty good, overall! I'm curious about the suggested fix for the shoulder creases. I had that problem on mine and fixed it by dropping the shirt front slightly from the inner shoulder seam at the neck to the shirt center front. It worked for me, but maybe there was a better way? I kind of winged it.

  4. Hi P, I haven't tried the fix yet, but here's a link to the pic that was posted for me
    it involves, I think, making the shoulder-to-neck line slope up more towards the neck, thereby adding a bit more fabric there, then re-drawing the neckline from that point. I'm assuming the shoulder line of the yoke can stay the same since the extra fabric is only needed at the front. I think I will have to make another muslin! But I will try to make it another wearable one.
    I also think part of the problem on this shirt is that my neckline adjustments somehow made the neck hole ever so slightly too big for the collar so I did a little bit of 'easing in', which is contributing to the pulling. I want to do the collar with stand next time which will involve making a new collar specifically to fit the neckline I have so that should help.
    It sounds like your adjustment would kind of loosen the whole shirt front up just a little and achieve much the same effect. I want a proper fitting book now!
    Whew, sorry for the long answer... it's a complex business isn't it!

  5. Thanks for the link. I looked at it and that's very close to what I did and makes sense. Good luck on the new muslin!


Hey, I would really love to know what you think. Go on!

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